In the last few days we've experienced quite a few ways of getting around, including as epic nine
hour journey by small boat from Siem Reap, across the Tonle Sap Lake, up the winding Sang Ke River to Battembang.
Along these waterways, there's a sense that the rhythm of life is just as it always was. Little children, naked, brown and supple as little water lizards slip over the sides of the stilted houses to splash around in the cloudy brown water.
Wizened elders sit with their cloth wrapped heads, staring into the flowing stream as it carries water hyacinth and people along in its current. Men stand in their long canoe-like boats holding fishing nets, or transporting fish traps to special places where dinner might be caught. Women wash clothes and prepare meals on the wooden verandahs of the floating houses.
The lake and river peoples are poor; we sense that many of them have never seen any other life than the one they know on the water.
If they had the money they could wave down this ferry as it passes with its human cargo, but they don't have even the tiny price of carriage from their floating village to Battembang. And did they got to there they have no money to buy anything anyway. In this world one small fish, together with rice will feed a family for a day.
If they are lucky and have a good day fishing they can buy some herbs and vegetables, and the essentials such as cooking pots from a river-borne vendor who plies her trade in a boat piled high.
To our European eyes it is a life so different, so unusual, that we find it hard to imagine but here are people living and thriving in this watery domain.
As we ride the river, a group of youngsters splash in the water; brown bodies glistening in the moody light...they see the ferry and its load of white skinned people and begin to wave at us.
Laughing, crying out "hullo" they wave at us. Their laughter and joy is infectious and we laugh and wave back.
Picture: Life on the Sang Ke River which comes off the huge Tonle Sap lake in northern Cambodia hasn't changed much in centuries.
I'm busy working on my blog posts. Watch this space!